Explorer II 16559 replica: what you're actually buying
The 16559 sits at the far edge of the Explorer II family, a scarce mid-1980s reference that shares its case architecture with the 16550 and its 24-hour bezel DNA with the original 1655. Real ones surface rarely, and the ones that do carry prices most people will never justify. So the replica market is where the look actually gets worn. That's the honest frame for this guide. What follows is how I'd shop one: what to lock down before you pay, which specs move the price, and the tells that separate a solid build from a watch you resent by month two.
Decide these three things before you look at listings
- How the 24-hour hand behaves. This is the whole point of a GMT watch. On the genuine caliber 3085 the 24-hour hand is independent, and on most budget replicas it is slaved to the hour hand. You cannot fix that later with a different strap. Ask the seller directly: can the 24-hour hand be set on its own? A vague answer is a no.
- Plexi or sapphire. The 16550-era crystal is acrylic, domed, with a warm edge distortion. Sapphire versions look cleaner and read as modern, which defeats the purpose on a vintage reference. If you want the period look, buy plexi and accept the scratches.
- Who services it. A GMT module that dies is a paperweight unless someone will touch it. Before checkout, ask what movement is inside and whether your local watchmaker stocks parts for it. If the answer is a shrug, walk.
What a good build gets right
- Case: roughly 40mm across, 20mm lugs, thick polished sides with a brushed top. The 16559/16550 case is not a slim dress case, and reps that shave it down look wrong on the wrist.
- Bezel: fixed steel 24-hour ring, numerals engraved and filled, not printed on a sticker. Run a fingernail across the engraving. If it feels flat, it is printed.
- Dial: matte black with painted or lume-filled markers, date at 3 under a cyclops, and "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" text aligned in that distinctive rail pattern you see on the transitional dials. Misaligned lines are the fastest tell under a loupe.
- Bracelet: Oyster-style, three link, brushed outer links, correct end-link fit against the case with no gaps or wiggle at the lugs.
- Movement: a clone of the 3085, or a modified 2836 with a proper GMT module running at 28,800 vph. Anything using a cheap 24-hour caliber will have a jumpy hand and a noisy rotor.
Price bands and what they buy you
- $110 to $180: mineral glass, slaved 24-hour hand, printed bezel insert, hollow end links. Fine as a costume, not as a watch.
- $220 to $380: the sweet spot for most buyers. Sapphire or decent plexi, engraved bezel, solid bracelet, 2836-based GMT. Expect minor dial print flaws.
- $420 to $700: clone 3085 or a properly rebuilt GMT movement, period-correct plexi dome, applied details, sharper case lines. This is where the reference actually looks like the reference.
Vintage-style builds come from small shops, so stock appears and disappears. Expect to wait, and expect a second run to differ from the first.
Pitfalls that cost real money
- Fake patina. Applied "aged" lume often reads mustard or orange rather than a soft cream. Ask for daylight photos, not studio shots.
- Reference inflation. Sellers slap 16559 on anything with a 24-hour bezel. Compare the bezel font, case profile, and dial text against documented examples before you believe the label.
- Bezel font errors. The 24 and the 12 placement, numeral thickness, and the shape of the 2 are common misses.
- Crown and tube mismatch. Wrong thread pitch means the crown feels gritty or strips. Test it in a video before shipping.
- No QC photos. Any seller who will not send close-ups of the dial, bezel, and caseback is selling you a lottery ticket.
- Oversized lugs or a fat case. The most common wrist tell. Check lug-to-lug measurements, not just the diameter.
Pre-purchase checklist
- Confirm the 24-hour hand sets independently.
- Get dial, bezel, caseback, and crown close-ups in daylight.
- Ask for the movement name and beat rate.
- Confirm crystal material and dome height.
- Ask about return policy and shipping insurance.
- Check whether a service manual or parts source exists for the movement.
The short version
Buy the movement and the case first, the dial second, the story last. A 16559 replica at $300 with an independent GMT hand and a correct plexi dome will outclass a $600 build with a slaved hand and a printed bezel every time. Know which one you're looking at before you send money.