Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Clone vs Original
Pick: for daily wear on a normal budget, a good clone with a working second time zone is the practical choice. For resale value, service history, and the last five percent of finishing, only the original 5164A earns its price. The rest of this review breaks down where the two actually split.
Know the reference before you compare
- Original: Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001, stainless steel, 40.8 mm across, roughly 10.2 mm thick, 120 m water resistance.
- Movement: calibre 324 S C FUS, self-winding, two time zones, two day/night apertures.
- Controls: two pushers on the left flank step the local hour forward or back in one-hour jumps.
- Dial: embossed Aquanaut grid, date window at 6 o'clock, LOCAL and HOME apertures at 3 and 9.
Where clones match the original
Layout is the easy part to copy, and most mid-tier and top-tier clones nail it. The rounded octagonal bezel profile, the brushed and polished mix on the case, the crown guards, and the strap integration all read correctly at arm's length. A clone with a real GMT module also keeps the two-pusher function, so the local hour jumps the way the original does. On the wrist, silhouette and wrist presence land close to the real thing.
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Where clones fall short
Three areas give it away. First is thickness: many clones sit 1 to 2 mm taller because the donor movement and module need the room, which changes how the watch sits under a cuff. Second is the dial: the original grid is stamped into the base plate with crisp, uniform squares, while clones often print the pattern or leave soft edges and shallow corners. Third is the hardware and finishing, where a clone's pushers feel gritty, the crown threads are coarse, and the caseback engraving lacks depth.
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Inspection routine: eight checks
- Measure case height with calipers and compare against the published 10.2 mm figure.
- Press each left-side pusher and confirm the local hour jumps exactly one hour with a clean click.
- Tilt the dial under a lamp and check that grid squares stay sharp from center to edge.
- Read the date font and window frame against a reference photo at the same angle.
- Check both day/night apertures for correct colors and half-disc alignment at noon and midnight.
- Wind the crown and note resistance, then confirm the rotor spins without a scrape.
- Inspect the clasp engraving and the strap texture under magnification.
- Compare caseback markings, serial placement, and sapphire clarity.
Movement and long-term ownership
The original runs the 324 S C FUS with a Patek Philippe Seal, a decorated rotor, and factory parts support for decades. Clones typically use a Japanese or Chinese automatic base with a bolt-on GMT module. That module is the weak link: it adds height, eats torque, and gives inconsistent power reserve. The original also holds value and can be serviced by the brand. A clone cannot be serviced by Patek, and most watchmakers will not touch the module.
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Verdict
Buy the clone if the goal is the look, the two-time-zone layout, and a rubber strap for travel without a five-figure outlay, and you accept that it is a wear-it-and-enjoy-it piece with no resale. Buy the original if you want the correct case proportions, the stamped dial, brand service, and an asset that keeps its value. Budget pick: a top-tier clone with a functioning GMT module. Best pick: the 5164A. Note that selling a clone as an original is illegal in the US and the EU, so keep any purchase for personal use only.