Quick answer

The replica Ballon Bleu 28mm is a copy of the small Ballon Bleu de Cartier. Cartier lists that case at 28.6 mm across. Replicas run on quartz movements, with steel or gold-plated cases and mineral or sapphire crystals. Prices sit between $45 and $300. The watch is not a Cartier product. US law bars import of watches that carry a counterfeit trademark.

What 28mm means in the Ballon Bleu line

The Ballon Bleu de Cartier ships in several case sizes. The small model is the 28mm reference. Cartier lists the diameter at 28.6 mm. The rest of the line runs 33mm, 36mm, 40mm, and 42mm. The 28mm case is the smallest of the group.

  • Case diameter: 28.6 mm, per Cartier
  • Genuine case material: stainless steel or 18k gold
  • Genuine crystal: sapphire
  • Genuine crown: fluted, set with a blue synthetic spinel cabochon
  • Genuine movement: Cartier caliber 057, quartz

Cartier does not publish every dimension for every reference. If thickness or lug width matters, measure the seller's watch before purchase.

Movements used in 28mm replicas

Almost all 28mm replicas are quartz. Three movement groups show up in listings.

  • Japanese quartz in the Miyota 2035 class, 3 jewels
  • Chinese quartz copies of the same layout
  • ETA 956.032 or 956.112 quartz, claimed by higher-priced sellers

The genuine 28mm Ballon Bleu is quartz, not automatic. A listing that advertises an automatic movement in this size does not match the genuine spec. Movement origin is the claim sellers prove least often.

Parts that separate a $60 replica from a $250 replica

  • Crystal. Mineral glass picks up scratches. Sapphire does not.
  • Cabochon. Cheap versions use glass or plastic, and the blue skews purple or gray.
  • Dial print. The words Cartier and Swiss Made sit heavy or blur under a loupe on low tiers.
  • Sunray finish. The genuine dial carries a brushed ray pattern that shifts with light. Printed imitations look flat.
  • Caseback engraving. Serial numbers on replicas repeat across units from the same batch.
  • Strap and buckle. Genuine uses alligator. Replicas use embossed calf.

Price tiers

  1. $45 to $90. Steel case, mineral crystal, Chinese quartz, gold-tone plating.
  2. $120 to $200. Cleaner case finishing, sapphire crystal option, Japanese quartz.
  3. $220 to $300 and up. Claimed ETA quartz, closer dial print, better cabochon color.

Prices move with seller and season. No tier makes the watch genuine Cartier.

Legal status in the US

19 U.S.C. 1526 prohibits import of goods that bear a counterfeit trademark. CBP can seize the shipment and destroy it. 18 U.S.C. 2320 covers trafficking in counterfeit goods. A single watch for personal use still falls under the import rule.

Checklist before buying

  1. Ask for the case diameter measured with calipers, not copied from a spec sheet.
  2. Ask for a photo of the movement through the caseback.
  3. Get the crystal material in writing.
  4. Check cabochon color in daylight, not studio light.
  5. Confirm the return window in writing.

What a listing cannot confirm

Plating thickness is not stated in most listings. Movement origin needs the case opened. Seller photos and shipped units differ in some cases. Treat every spec as unverified until the watch is in hand.