Quick Answer
A replica Cartier Panthère bracelet copies the shape of the Panthère de Cartier chain: flat links, a panther head at the clasp, black lacquer on the nose and spots, and two stone eyes. Genuine models use 18k gold (750 stamp), black lacquer, and tsavorite garnet or emerald eyes. Replicas use brass, 316L stainless steel, or 925 sterling silver with gold plating, plus cubic zirconia or glass stones. Cartier brought back the Panthère jewelry line in 2017.
Metals, Plating, and Weight
Plating thickness is measured in microns. One micron is 0.001 mm. Most replica sellers do not publish this number. Ask for it in writing.
- Brass body, gold paint or 1 to 3 microns of plating. Color wears through at the clasp in 4 to 12 weeks of daily wear.
- 316L steel with PVD coating, 1 to 3 microns. Holds color longer. Steel is heavier than brass.
- 925 sterling silver with 2 to 5 microns of 18k gold. Silver tarnishes under the plating at scratches and edges.
- No tier is solid gold. Solid gold weighs more than a plated copy of the same chain length. Request the gram weight before you pay.
Nickel appears in many plating baths. Nickel release causes contact dermatitis on the wrist. The EU caps nickel release under REACH. The US has no federal nickel release limit for jewelry.
Sizing
Cartier lists chain length in millimeters for each model. Measure your wrist circumference with a cloth tape. Add 1 to 2 cm (0.4 to 0.8 in) for a loose fit. Replica sellers label sizes as S, M, and L or in centimeters. Ask for the measured length in cm, not the label. A chain that sits tight on the wrist pulls on the clasp and opens the gap at the panther head.
What to Check on a Replica
- Clasp action. The panther head should snap shut with one hand and stay shut. A weak spring is the first part to fail.
- Link pins. Each link should move on a pin. Stiff links mean a one-piece cast body, which cracks at the bend points.
- Stone setting. Prong-set stones sit in metal claws. Glued stones fall out within months. Look for four claws per stone.
- Markings. Genuine pieces carry the Cartier signature and French assay marks. A replica stamped with a false eagle head or a 750 mark breaks US gold marking law.
- Plating quote. Sellers who state plating in microns sell mid or high tier goods. Sellers who list "gold plated" alone sell the low tier.
US Legal Notes
18 U.S.C. § 2320 makes trafficking in counterfeit goods a federal crime. A first offense carries up to 10 years in prison and a $2 million fine for an individual. US Customs and Border Protection can seize counterfeit shipments at the border. The personal-use exception is narrow: one item of a type, no resale. Selling a replica as a genuine Cartier piece is trademark infringement under the Lanham Act. Keep the receipt. Do not resell the item as authentic.
Care
Gold plating wears at four points: the clasp, the link edges, the stone claws, and the inner wrist where skin rubs. Remove the bracelet for showers, swimming, and gym work. Chlorine and salt water attack plating and sterling silver. Wipe with a dry cotton cloth after wear. Skip polishing compound and ultrasonic cleaners, both strip plating. Store the bracelet in a dry pouch with the clasp closed.
Testing Claims
A magnet does not identify gold. Brass, 316L steel, and 18k gold are all non-magnetic. An acid scratch test damages plating. X-ray fluorescence (XRF) at a jeweler reads only the surface layer on a plated item, so it reports the plating, not the core metal. The only reliable number for a plated replica is the plating thickness stated by the seller.