The top pick for most buyers is a super-clone build of the replica IW938720, meaning one that matches the original case diameter and thickness, runs a cloned automatic movement with the same function set as the watch it copies, and uses a sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating. The criteria behind that pick are movement quality, case and dial accuracy, crystal and finishing, water resistance, and how plainly the seller documents what they actually ship. If a listing cannot answer basic questions on those five points, the tier it claims to sit in does not matter.

What the IW938720 reference actually means

IWC reference strings follow an IW prefix, and sellers reuse those strings loosely. Before you compare two listings, settle what the number is supposed to identify: which model family, which case size, and which function set. Two sellers can use the same string for builds that differ in diameter by two millimeters and in movement by an entire class.

  • Ask for the original model name the build copies, not just the number.
  • Ask for measured case diameter, thickness, and lug width, ideally with calipers visible in a photo.
  • Confirm the function set: date only, day-date, chronograph, or none at all.
  • Confirm the dial variant, since color and index style change the look more than any other single detail.

The maker's own catalog is the only clean reference point for what the original looks like. Compare the listing against the manufacturer's published images and specs rather than against other replica listings, which copy each other's errors.

Tier 1: Super clone

Pros

  • Closest case geometry, crown position, and dial print of the three tiers.
  • Cloned movement with the correct function layout, so pushers and date change behave the way the original does.
  • Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface.
  • Bracelet finishing and end-link fit are noticeably tighter, and the build is easier to resell later.

Cons

  • Highest cost of the three tiers.
  • Needs servicing like any mechanical watch, and cloned calibers can be harder to source parts for.
  • Availability is uneven, and popular references sell out.
  • Some sellers substitute a cheaper movement without mentioning it.

Use case: buyers who want the closest match, wear the watch often, and will pay for a build that survives daily handling.

Tier 2: Mid tier

Pros

  • Correct overall silhouette and dial layout at a lower cost point than the top tier.
  • Usually runs a widely produced automatic caliber that any local watchmaker can service or replace.
  • Replacement crystals, gaskets, and straps are easy to find.
  • Good balance for a first purchase in this reference.

Cons

  • Case thickness is often off by a small but visible margin.
  • Bracelet and clasp finishing is the first place the tier shows.
  • Crystal may be mineral, or sapphire without anti-reflective coating.
  • Dial print and applied markers are less crisp under close inspection.

Use case: everyday wear for buyers who care more about the look on the wrist than the last fraction of a millimeter.

Tier 3: Budget

Pros

  • Lowest cost of the three, which makes it a low-risk way to test the size and style.
  • Often uses a basic automatic or quartz movement that is simple and cheap to swap.
  • Easy to replace if it is damaged.

Cons

  • Case proportions and dial detail diverge most from the original.
  • Water resistance is largely nominal.
  • Plating, printing, and lume wear faster.
  • Sellers frequently reuse the same photos across several different listings.

Use case: trying the silhouette before committing to a better build, or an occasional-wear piece.

Criterion: movement

The movement decides how the watch behaves after the first month. A cloned caliber keeps the sub-dial and pusher layout correct, while a generic automatic often forces a different date position or a thicker case. Ask which caliber is inside, whether it is automatic or quartz, what the power reserve is, and what the beat rate is. A seller who cannot name the movement is not a seller worth buying from.

  • Automatic with hacking seconds and a quickset date is the practical minimum.
  • Ask whether the movement is a clone of the original caliber or a substitute from another maker.
  • Confirm the service interval the seller recommends.

Criterion: case, dial, and finishing

Case shape is what people notice from across a room, and dial detail is what they notice up close. Check crown position, lug shape, bezel profile, and the depth of any engraving on the caseback. On the dial, check whether the markers are applied or printed, whether the text is centered, and whether the hands are the right width and finish.

  • Request a straight-on dial photo and a profile photo.
  • Ask for a wrist shot on a known wrist size, since scale without context is guesswork.
  • Check bracelet taper and clasp engraving quality if the model uses a metal bracelet.

Criterion: crystal and water resistance

ISO 22810 is the international standard that sets the test conditions behind a water-resistance rating, so a watch marked water resistant has passed defined tests at that rating. That standard tells you nothing about an individual replica unless the seller can describe how the case was sealed. Treat any replica as splash resistant unless it has been pressure tested, and never swim with one you have not had tested.

  • Sapphire beats mineral for scratch resistance; anti-reflective coating matters more than most buyers expect.
  • Ask whether the caseback and crown gaskets were fitted and greased.
  • Assume no meaningful water resistance on any listing that does not state a rating.

Questions to ask the seller

  1. Which original model and reference does this build copy?
  2. What are the measured case diameter, thickness, and lug width?
  3. Which movement is installed, and is it a clone or a substitute?
  4. Is the crystal sapphire, and does it have anti-reflective coating?
  5. Which factory produced it, and can you send photos of the actual unit?
  6. What is the return policy if the item does not match the photos?

Who should buy which tier

Buy the super clone if you wear the watch several times a week and the case profile matters to you. Buy the mid tier if you want a correct silhouette, easy servicing, and a lower entry cost. Buy the budget build only to test whether the size and style suit you, or to own an occasional piece you will not stress over. In every tier, the deciding factor is the seller's willingness to answer specific questions about the exact unit being shipped.