Short answer
The replica Rolex Submariner No Date copies the Submariners with no date window and no cyclops. That means the 114060 from 2012 to 2020, the 124060 that replaced it, and the older 14060 family behind them. It is the most forgiving Submariner to copy. There is no date wheel to sit off center, no magnification bubble to distort the dial, and no cyclops gasket to leak. If you want one Sub that reads correctly from arm's length, this is the version I would pick.
Why the no-date version is the safer buy
A date Submariner gives a maker three extra chances to fail. The date font, the wheel alignment, and the cyclops all have to land close to perfect, and a single crooked numeral at midnight is enough to give the watch away. The no-date dial removes that entire problem set. What is left is a plain black dial with printed text, a set of markers, and a ceramic bezel insert. Still not easy to fake well, but the tolerance for error is much wider.
There is a second reason. Plenty of genuine buyers prefer the clean face too, so nobody stares at a no-date Submariner and assumes it is a fake. It does not read as a compromise the way a badly done date model often does.
The references worth knowing
- 5513: vintage, acrylic crystal, painted dials that age into a warm patina no replica matches. Rated to 200 m.
- 14060 and 14060M: 40 mm, aluminum bezel, lug holes on earlier examples, 300 m, caliber 3000 or 3130.
- 114060: 40 mm, ceramic bezel, caliber 3130, blue Chromalight lume, engraved rehaut, Glidelock clasp.
- 124060: 41 mm, slimmer lugs, caliber 3230 with a 70-hour power reserve.
Most replicas are built around the 114060 or 124060 because a ceramic insert is easier to reproduce than a faded aluminum one. If you see a "vintage" no-date Sub replica with a matte dial and gilt printing, it is usually a fantasy build rather than a copy of a real reference.
Case and proportions
The 114060 measures 40 mm across and sits around 12.5 mm thick. The 124060 grew to 41 mm with thinner lugs, and many replica makers use the same generic 40 mm case for both. That shows up on the wrist more than people expect. I measure the case, check the lug width at 20 mm, and look at the crown guard shape, which should sit tight to the case without a visible gap where it meets the midcase.
Movement tiers
- Entry builds: ETA 2824 or 2836 pattern clones with the date works removed or hidden under the dial. Cheap to service, sometimes less steady after the date parts are stripped out.
- Mid tier: the same architecture with decorated bridges, engraved rotors, and a "Swiss made" label that usually has nothing to do with Switzerland.
- Top tier: custom 3130 style clones running at 28,800 vph with a smoother winding feel and better beat stability.
Ask which movement is inside before you buy. A 2824 pattern movement can be swapped or repaired by almost any watchmaker. A custom 3130 clone can be harder and pricier to fix, which matters more than the specs on paper.
Bezel, crystal, and dial details
- The ceramic insert numerals should sit slightly recessed and filled, not painted flat on the surface.
- The lume pip at 12 should sit inside a metal ring and glow blue on 114060 and 124060 style builds.
- A real Sub bezel is unidirectional with a 120-click ratchet. Cheap replicas feel gritty or spin almost freely.
- The crystal should sit nearly flush with the bezel, with little or no lip.
- Dial printing should be crisp, with even spacing between the SUBMARINER line and the depth rating.
- Rehaut engraving should be present and centered, not stamped crooked or half missing.
Bracelet and clasp
Look for solid end links that sit flush to the lugs with no step or wobble. The Oyster bracelet is three-piece links, so the outer links should be polished and the center brushed on the modern references. The clasp should close with one firm click. If the Glidelock extension feels loose or drags, that is a sign of sloppy finishing, and it is the part of a replica that shows wear first.
What I check when the watch arrives
- Bezel triangle lined up dead on 12.
- Hand stack height, and whether the hands meet exactly at 12 o'clock.
- End-link fit and clasp action.
- Crown smoothness. Winding should feel even, and the crown should thread without binding.
- Timegrapher numbers. Expect 28,800 vph and somewhere in the range of minus 10 to plus 20 seconds a day on a decent build.
- Water resistance claims. I do not trust them. Get a pressure test or keep it away from water.
Costs and what you actually get
Below roughly $200 you are buying a shape, not a watch. Bezels misalign, bracelets rattle, and the movement may be a low-beat unit that loses time through the day. Between about $250 and $500 you get a case that is close in profile, a decent clone movement, and a bracelet that does not embarrass itself. Above that you are paying for the small stuff: crisper insert, better lume, sharper dial print, and a movement with a smoother feel.
Legal and practical notes
Replica watches are counterfeits. Selling them is illegal in the US and much of Europe, and importing one can mean seizure and a letter from customs. Rolex will not service it, no authorized dealer will touch it, and resale value is close to zero. Treat the watch as a fun object rather than an asset, and do not expect it to gain value or survive a proper moisture test out of the box.
Bottom line
The no-date Submariner is the replica to buy if you want the least obvious fake. Skip the $100 builds, ask about the movement, check bezel and hand alignment on arrival, and keep it dry. Everything past that is small details, and the small details are where the money goes.